Frankincense has been in use for the reason that daybreak of time. Nicknamed the “king of oils”, this treasured resin from the Boswellia tree has been used for millennia in non secular ceremonies, Ayurvedic and Chinese language drugs, aromatherapy, perfumery, and cosmetics. Each its attribute heat, woodsy scent and highly effective anti-inflammatory properties make it the proper addition to your home made skincare formulations, particularly these focused at mature pores and skin.

Nevertheless, this ingredient isn’t with out its challenges and controversy within the magnificence world.

Over the previous few years, frankincense has been over-harvested resulting from elevated market demand, which has endangered the lifetime of Frankincense-producing bushes. There’s rising consciousness of the necessity for moral and sustainable practices surrounding frankincense, and options are being launched to make sure its sustainable and moral harvesting.

On this weblog put up, you’ll study in regards to the historical past and origins of Frankincense, its advantages in skincare, in addition to moral frankincense sourcing, so you may implement essentially the most accountable magnificence practices from the beginning.

Frankincense by means of time: spirituality and cosmetics

Few substances have such historic significance as frankincense. This fragrant resin has a protracted historical past of use, relationship again so far as the earliest recorded historical past of man.

Frankincense has been used since historical occasions and has a protracted historic correlation with spirituality and faith. It has been traded for over 5,000 years in areas of the Center East and North Africa and was thought-about to be price greater than gold. Allegedly, Babylonians and Assyrians burned the resin throughout non secular ceremonies, and the traditional Egyptians used it as incense in sacred rituals, notably within the sacred incense preparation kyphi (i). Frankincense was additionally a key element within the embalming course of and was additional used as an insect repellent, fragrance, and in salves.

These days, frankincense is a extremely popular ingredient in perfumery, aromatherapy and skincare and has confirmed anti-inflammatory qualities.

Frankincense – sustainability and moral points

We’ll contact briefly on the sustainability points now and we urge you to carry them in your thoughts when you learn the listing of among the beauty extracts and makes use of of frankincense. Later on this put up, we clarify in additional depth the moral points behind the manufacturing of frankincense.

Frankincense, also referred to as olibanum, is a milky white resin derived from the Boswellia sacra tree, of the Burseraceae household. There are over 550 species of Burseraceae, also referred to as the “incense tree household”, discovered throughout Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.

The resin of those bushes is harvested by tapping. Nevertheless, this may weaken the tree, cut back its capacity to breed and go away it uncovered to insect harm and illness. Not solely intensive tapping of the resin endanger the way forward for Boswellia bushes, but it surely additionally strongly impacts native communities whose livelihoods rely upon this historical manner of harvesting. Whereas restricted, artisanal ranges of harvesting frankincense permits bushes to relaxation and recuperate between tapping intervals, rising demand for the resin has seen the over-exploitation of the bushes resulting in their degradation and harm.

Frankincense – valued advantages for our pores and skin

Frankincense has a novel, calming scent and has many anti-inflammatory compounds, known as boswellic acids (molecules produced by the Boswellia bushes) which can be of nice profit in cosmetics geared toward mature pores and skin. Their anti-inflammatory properties, could also be helpful for photoaged pores and skin, in addition to oily and atopic pores and skin (ii, iii, iv), and for lowering the seen indicators of scar tissue (v).

Different attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds embody alpha-pinene, alpha-thujene, and limonene. These are all monoterpenes, a household of molecules discovered within the prime notes of important oils. Keep in mind that these chemical compounds and their focus differ relying upon the number of the frankincense. It is best to be capable of receive all this data out of your ingredient’s SDS sheet. See our put up:

How you can learn security knowledge sheets

Frankincense beauty substances

Let’s discuss now in regards to the completely different beauty substances derived from frankincense to be used in beauty formulation.

Frankincense hydrosol

INCI: Boswellia carterii gum water

Frankincense hydrosol is a good basis ingredient to make use of in your formulations as an alternative of water. This can enhance the results of your last product, as frankincense hydrosol incorporates highly effective anti-inflammatory advantages suited to delicate, problematic and mature pores and skin. Additionally it is an important different to frankincense important oil – it has a extra beneficial value level – and has a sweeter aroma.

We advocate you employ frankincense hydrosol within the water section of your emulsions or water-based cleansers, or apply it instantly as a twig mist, avoiding the eyes, to tone or refresh the pores and skin.

You will discover out extra about hydrosols in addition to the problems surrounding their preservation in our intensive posts beneath:

The formulator’s information to hydrosols
Are you shopping for contaminated hydrosols?
5 the reason why your pure formulations want preserving
Every part you needed to learn about pure preservatives

Frankincense important oils

There’s little readability in regards to the varied kinds of frankincense and their important oils. Not solely is there confusion over the nomenclature, however some oils have been assigned incorrect origins (vi). On this part, we’ll point out the primary industrial frankincense important oils, however there are a lot of others. To differentiate them, you want to examine their INCI title. It’s vitally essential to know the variability you might be shopping for as some are exploited virtually to the purpose of endangering the species. We check out this and different sustainability points later.

Understand that outdated or oxidised oils could cause pores and skin sensitisation, in addition to undiluted important oils. Moreover, important oils should not beneficial to be used throughout being pregnant or whereas breastfeeding. Discover out extra about important oil security and the sustainability of important oils beneath:

Podcast 6: Important oil security with Robert Tisserand
Podcast 75: How sustainable are important oils?

Boswellia sacra resin oil: This aromatic important oil is native to Somalia and is obtained from the steam distillation of the gum resin of the Boswellia Sacra tree, the first tree within the Boswellia genus. This tree produces resin when it’s about 8-10 years outdated, which is then harvested to supply frankincense important oil. This emollient and perfuming important oil has a recent, fruity, and spicy aroma, which blends nicely with spicy and citrus oils.

Use it between 0.25-3% of your whole method in water-based or anhydrous merchandise for a beautiful perfume. All the time double-check the beneficial quantity together with your provider and its dermal limits, as completely different formulations require completely different quantities.

Boswellia carterii oil: Often known as olibanum, this selection additionally has a woodsy, balsamic, and fruity perfume, however is extracted from the bottom gum of the Boswellia carterii tree. Typically utilized in herbalism as a remedy for varied wounds, it’s used as an anti-inflammatory ingredient in cosmetics. Incorporate it in emulsions or anhydrous merchandise within the cool-down section to supply a soothing impact.

Boswellia serrata oil: Often known as Indian frankincense, Boswellia serrata important oil can be utilized as a substitute for the Carterri selection, because it has related properties. With a sweeter aroma, Boswellia serrata presents soothing, calming, balancing, astringent, and anti inflammatory properties. It’s typically used as a base perfumery notice or in anti-inflammatory merchandise. Strive combining it with different anti-inflammatory substances similar to calendula or chamomile within the cool-down section of your emulsions or anhydrous merchandise for a soothing impact and a nice perfume.

Frankincense resin powder

INCI: Boswellia carterii resin extract

Final however not least, we have now frankincense resin powder, which is an off-white powder derived from Boswellia bushes. This powder presents attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally it is typically used to fragrance cosmetics due to its attribute heat and spicy perfume.

Add frankincense powder to your lotions and serums within the heated water section, dissolving it first, or to your strong formulations similar to cleaning bars or therapeutic massage bars. Frankincense powder can even current exfoliating properties. It’s attention-grabbing so as to add to water-based formulations or emulsions, or to combine with different dry powders to create a beautiful face cleanser that you just activate with water. We propose you strive incorporating frankincense powder into the water section of an exfoliating gel or a cream. Watch out to make use of a protecting masks when working with powders to keep away from absorbing any particles.

Listed below are some ideas of formulation you may incorporate frankincense powder to:

Strong formulations: how you can make a strong cleaning bar
6 strong magnificence bars good for newbies to make at house
How you can formulate a face cleaning powder

Can frankincense ever be sustainable?

Whereas frankincense is an incredible ingredient, its continued use can result in many sustainability points, which is why this can be very essential to analysis your substances and pay attention to the environmental and social challenges they might trigger. On this part, we focus on the sustainability of frankincense and what you are able to do as a formulator to supply sustainable frankincense.

Over the previous few years, there was vital over-harvesting of frankincense bushes, particularly of Indian and African frankincense. The harvesting course of may be very damaging to the tree, because the sap is extracted from the bushes by tapping. And whereas this course of ought to solely occur twice a 12 months, it occurs extra steadily to maintain up with world calls for, endangering the bushes and biodiversity.

That is largely brought on by market demand and managing practices, which contribute to the decline in frankincense tree populations and a complication of the provision chain (vii). This could additionally result in short-term unsustainable practices, similar to a scarcity of traceability and transparency, in addition to counterfeit frankincense merchandise (vii). Patrons are searching for cheaper substitutions, that are then in flip altered, whereas actual frankincense may be actually costly.

Progress on sustainable frankincense

The excellent news is that new applied sciences and approaches are consistently rising to incentivise sustainable practices and supply frankincense ethically, in addition to assist native communities. One of the crucial latest applied sciences can display screen and determine the authenticity of economic frankincense merchandise by means of a speedy mass spectrometry technique, screening frankincense samples and evaluating them to a reference pattern (viii). Planting new frankincense bushes is one other strategy to counter the over-harvesting of frankincense.

Sure areas and nations are rising to the problem by creating nationwide initiatives, typically supported by worldwide public our bodies and personal firms, to advertise sustainable, low-level artisanal harvesting, the safety of historic frankincense websites, and the replanting of Boswellia bushes. Only one instance of such intervention and consciousness elevating is the work of the Surroundings Society of Oman (ESO) which is geared toward defending and preserving Boswellia serrata bushes within the Sultanate of Oman. Sponsors of the ESO’s work have included UK-based Neal’s Yard Treatments, which sells cosmetics infused with frankincense in addition to the neat important oil.

Nevertheless, so long as the demand retains rising, there can’t be an actual sustainable solution to harvest frankincense, as producing and consuming extra is the other of sustainability. In reality, the ESO says that the Boswellia sacra selection is listed as “Close to Threatened” on the The Worldwide Union for Conservation of Nature Pink Listing of Threatened Species.

The place does that go away you as a formulator?

Armed with the knowledge above – and your personal additional analysis – you will want to make moral selections about whether or not to incorporate frankincense in your formulations. If you happen to select to harness its advantages in your formulations, you will want to make sure you know the provenance of your frankincense oils or extracts and buy solely after researching your ingredient, its provide chain and provider totally in an effort to perceive the place it comes from and the way it was harvested. Ask about its origins, harvesting, and extraction, in addition to its influence on native communities earlier than making a purchase order.

Prioritise unbiased and native producers of frankincense substances which can be licensed natural, or are on the very least wildlife-friendly, and have knowledge to again it up which they’ll present you. You will discover additional data on the sustainability of your frankincense species on technical knowledge sheets and threatened plant species lists similar to CITES.

How you can analysis beauty substances for natural skincare
7 tips about sourcing sustainable botanical substances
Episode 79: The problem of sourcing pure substances

If you happen to’re excited by launching your personal sustainable magnificence model, these assets would possibly make it easier to:

15 certification schemes for sustainable magnificence
5 sustainable practices in your magnificence enterprise
Podcast 23: Beginning an moral skincare enterprise
Podcast 163: Sustainable magnificence made less complicated and smarter
Episode 85: The reality about wild harvested magnificence

Your path into sustainable beauty formulation

In conclusion then, frankincense is a superb anti-inflammatory ingredient, however one with appreciable moral concerns to tackle board in case you decide to make use of it in your formulations.

We encourage you to embrace sustainability from the beginning of your journey into pure, natural formulation, by means of our free coaching and authorized diploma programs, in addition to inside our unique membership-only web site, the Lab at Formulation Botanica.

Do share your ideas about frankincense within the feedback beneath or on our social media.

Additional studying and references

(i) Anthony Dweck, 2017. Handbook of pure substances (Fourth version)
(ii) Stefano Togni, et al, 2014: Clin Cosmet Investig Dematol, 2014. A cosmeceutical formulation primarily based on boswellic acids for the remedy of erythematous eczema and psoriasis.
(iii) Han et al, 2017. Organic actions of frankincense important oil in human dermal fibroblasts.
(iv) Alessandra Pedretti, et al; 2010: Planta Med, 2010. Results of Topical Boswellic Acid on Photograph and Age-Broken Pores and skin: Medical, Biophysical, and Echographic Evaluations in a Double-Blind, Randomized, Break up-Face Examine.
(v) Piergiacamo Calzavara-Pinton, et al; Dermatol Ther. 2010. Topical Boswellic acids for remedy of photoaged pores and skin.
(vi) Robert Tisserand and Rodney Younger, 2013. Important oil security (Second version).
(vii) Anjanette De Carlo et al, 2020. Ecological and Financial Sustainability of Non-Timber Forest Merchandise in Put up-Battle Restoration: A Case Examine of the Frankincense (Boswellia spp.) Resin Harvesting in Somaliland (Somalia).
(vii) Brendler et al, 2018. Sustainable provide, a basis for pure product growth: the case of Indian frankincense.
(viii) Lai et al, 2022. Identification of Business Frankincense Merchandise by MALDITOF Mass Spectrometry.

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Ariane is a printed journalist, weblog author, and content material creator for Formulation Botanica. Her areas of focus embody magnificence, human curiosity, and humanities and tradition. Ariane has been a member of the Formulation Botanica group since 2021.