In quest of extra sustainable options for the manufacture of pure positive perfumery components, Cosmo Worldwide Fragrances has developed a brand new methodology for extracting perfume molecules from botanicals. This patent-pending expertise is a waterless, low-energy, sluggish extraction course of that “reveals the precise scent of an ingredient whereas preserving its integrity,” claims the corporate.

Air-powered extraction

Utilizing solely air, the brand new extraction expertise harnesses the unstable perfume molecules of flowers, fruits and different pure components with out the necessity for heating, cooling or chemical solvents utilized in typical scent extraction. Flowers thus retain their integrity and on the finish of the method, might be recycled and re-used in a second extraction, serving to scale back waste.

L’Oréal Groupe has secured unique entry to this Inexperienced Sciences-based extraction course of that, based on the 2 firms, guarantees to open the door to new perfume frontiers and enlarge the fragrance-maker’s scent library to incorporate “100% pure and pure scent extracts.”

“By this Inexperienced Sciences extraction course of, we will expertise the olfactive energy of flowers in an genuine approach, as if strolling in a backyard, area or forest,” stated Barbara Lavernos, Deputy Chief Government Officer answerable for Analysis, Innovation and Know-how, L’Oréal.

First launch in 2024

To kick off the collaboration, L’Oréal Groupe and Cosmo Worldwide will deal with a brand new tuberose floral extract for a positive perfume to be launched in 2024.

“Our manufacturers will take positive perfume crafting to new heights by providing unprecedented olfactive authenticity, permitting pure components to specific their full olfactive identification like by no means earlier than,” stated Cyril Chapuy, President of L’Oréal Luxe.

Sustainable provide chain

The partnership between the 2 firms is in step with a main pattern of the perfume market: the search for brand spanking new and distinctive accords obtained from strategies low environmental footprint.

“Because the world chief in positive fragrances, embracing sustainability all through the entire perfume worth chain is not only a alternative: it’s our conviction. From ingredient sourcing to refill adoption, we’re innovating at each step to cut back our impression and shift in direction of a extra accountable perfume mannequin,” added Cyril Chapuy.

The event of environmentally pleasant extraction strategies able to offering entry to new odorous molecules is likely one of the most important fields of present analysis and innovation in perfumery. As an illustration, dsm-firmenich lately debuted new extracts from its Firgood electromagnetic extraction expertise, launched in 2021, whereas in 2019 Symrise unveiled SymTrap, a course of for capturing odorous molecules in aqueous options.